In February of 2022, I packed up my house and moved everything into storage - save for my two cats, basic essentials, and my corporate laptop. I decided to take my 9-5 on the road fulltime. After two years of heaviness and heartbreak, I wanted to start remote living where life was VIBRANT.
I’ve felt drawn back to New Orleans ever since first visiting in 2015. It’s hauntingly beautiful, in a way that can only be said of New Orleans. The city and its people truly defy all odds. New Orleans has been burned, flooded, and overran with corruption more times than one can count - yet still finds a way to rise through the mire every. single. time. It’s this resilience that makes New Orleans so uniquely magical and why there’s no where else I would have rather kicked off this ramble of a lifetime.
My month in New Orleans FLEW by! I had the time of my life and ate, danced, explored, fished, paddled, hiked, and shopped my way through the city and surrounding areas. So, let’s dive right in!
ADVENTURE TOURS I LOVED
NEW ORLEANS AIRBOAT TOURS, LLC: If you’ve never been on an airboat, this is such a fun and exciting way to see Louisiana’s swamp - as a bonus, you move fast enough that the bugs don’t get you! Family-owned and operated for the last 150 years, this company runs airboat tours, cypress restoration projects, sustainable fishing, nutria harvesting, and farms/fosters alligators for wild release to ensure a healthy future ecosystem. They also service recovery and aid efforts for oil spills and hurricane relief. To really top it off, these guides are all equally hilarious and SO knowledgeable of the swamp. You’re guaranteed to see some BIG gators! (From my cousin and mom’s learned experience - I do not recommend doing this tour hung over.) | 30-35 mins from New Orleans
Manchac Swamp Paddle: If you’re looking for a more leisurely and intimate way to explore the swamps and bayou up close, this is your tour. This is classified as an eco-tour and you’ll meander through winding bayous taking in sunning and drifting alligators, fish, and a stunning array of avian life. The guides are incredibly knowledgeable and will happily answer any questions you have for them! Perfect for beginners and seasoned paddlers alike. | 30-35 mins from New Orleans
Dr. Wagner Honey Island Swamp Tour: This tour truly felt like a swamp version of Disneyland’s Jungle Cruise. Disney did a phenomenal job emulating Louisiana, but this is the REAL DEAL. Hop on board for wild stories of Louisiana’s most famous pirate, Spanish treasure troves, backcountry homesteads, alligators, raccoons, snakes, bald eagles, and more! This tour truly caters to all ages and is the most family-friendly of the three swamp tours. | 40-50 mins from New Orleans
Saltwater Kayak Company: I went out with Tanner twice for inshore kayak fishing in Louisiana and had a BLAST. If you’ve never fished from a kayak before, it’s a super unique and fun experience. Tanner has trips within the New Orleans area - and also offers Grand Isle trips! If you enjoy fishing and have the time, this is an absolute must. | Driving time depends on location
The National WWII Museum: This museum has one of the most immersive and intimate exhibit designs I’ve ever experienced. A somber, yet humbling experience that I would recommend to anyone of any age. | 6 mins by car from French Quarter
Avery Island and Jungle Gardens: If you have time for a day trip from New Orleans, visit the Tabasco Factory at Avery Island. There’s a small museum, restaurant, and the accompanying Jungle Gardens are stunning. You’re bound to see armadillos, alligators, deer, and a large variety of bird life. Instead of the I-10, take the Atchafalaya Byway to fully embrace the beauty of the Cajun coast. | 2hr 15min from New Orleans
EXPERIENCES THAT I LOVED
Shrimp Boil Cabaret: Words cannot express how wonderful Chef Gregory and this entire experience was. He is so passionate about preserving New Orleans’ food, culture, art and people’s livelihood for generations to come. Spend your money where it matters, because this is it. To top it off - the three course meal was DIVINE. | French Quarter | Address provided upon booked reservation
Preservation Hall: Preservation Hall sits behind an unassuming door in the French Quarter. Step through and back in time for a glimpse into what jazz music feels like in your soul. Cell phones and cameras are not permitted to make the most of the evening. | French Quarter | 726 St Peter, New Orleans, LA 70116
Mahogany Jazz Hall: Another jazz hall, with a bit more of a modern twist. Limited seating, but you can often get lucky on first-come, first-served seating! Their drink selection is also quite expansive. | French Quarter | 125 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Three Muses: A live music bar on Frenchmen Street with rotating acts and amazing drinks | The Marginy | 536 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70116
FOOD THAT I LOVED
To make planning easier, this list is organized by ward/neighborhoods. For each of these places - I would dine again in a heartbeat and dream about them often, please enjoy extra for me!
French Quarter | Vieux Carré
Café Du Monde | world famous beignets that you absolutely must have before you leave the city. While they have a location here in the Quarter, the line is LONG. I recommend going to the City Park location, if you’re able, as the line is much shorter and the scenery stunning | 800 Decatur Street, New Orleans, LA 70116
Evangeline | for as good as this restaurant is, there’s hardly ever a wait and it feels like my personal secret and gem in the Quarter. I’ve had both the Jambalaya and the Pasta Evangeline and they keep getting better each time. The bread pudding is incredible | 329 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70130
The Original French Market | as in it’s name, this is the original restaurant and the food still holds up today! I tried lots of oysters in my time in the city - and the charbroiled oysters here were without a doubt the best |
Royal House Oyster Bar | seating on both the first and second stories - I recommend the second, especially the Terrace is it’s available! | 441 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Irish Channel/Lower Garden:
Atchafalaya - both the service and food at Atchafalaya was TOP NOTCH. Set in a Creole cottage in the Irish Channel, greenery erupts around the cottage and pours onto the sidewalks welcoming you into the cool and elegant space. I loved every dish I tried here and this was one of my favorite restaurants during my time here. I’ll keep coming back again and again, a million times over. | 901 Louisiana Ave, New Orleans, LA 70115
Levee Baking Co. - a divine bakery, I still dream of the poppy seed onion croissant and chewy chocolate pecan cookie | 3138 Magazine St Ste. D, New Orleans, LA 70115
Elizabeth Street Café - attached to the St. Vincent Hotel, Elizabeth Street POPS in both vibrant color and food. You cannot go wrong with the spicy Singaporean noodles! Gated (free) parking is available for guests and patrons | 1507 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70130
French Truck Coffee - this is a staple found in many neighborhoods, hot coffee on hot days is 100% acceptable | many locations
Stein’s Market and Deli - this Jewish, Italian deli serves up loaded sandwiches with all of the best ingredients from all over the world, truly. Their craft beer selection also rivals any liquor store I’ve seen | 2207 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130
The Marigny (Frenchmen Street included)
Marigny Brasserie - food in Nola is heavy, if you’re looking for a palette cleansing salad that’s still hearty, look no further | 640 Frenchmen Street, New Orleans LA 70116
Mr. Shrimp 504 - Shrimp boils ON THE STREET. Loaded with potatoes, shrimp, sausage, and corn - these guys are PHENOMONAL. Catch them Thursday nights on Frenchmen Street and follow their social pages for location updates! |
Frenchmen All Day - the CUTEST coffee shop and café, I spent many mornings reading and working here as well | 630 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Tremé
Willie Mae’s Scotch House - never have I ever had fried chicken that MELTED IN MY MOUTH until Willie Mae’s. This place is absolutely worth the wait, but plan accordingly! They’re only open Monday through Saturday and close at 5pm sharp. | 2401 St Ann St., New Orleans, LA 70119
Freret
Superior Seafood & Oyster Bar | This restaurant gets busy quick, so reservations are recommended! The bacon wrapped shrimp was so filling, rich, and delicious | 4338 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70115
Cherry Coffee Roasters | I spent many afternoons here reading. The neighborhood is quiet and there’s plenty of parking nearby - and the coffee is full bodied and hits the spot just right | 4877 Laurel St, New Orleans, LA 70115
Uptown
La Petite Grocery - my second all-time fave restaurant in New Orleans, La Petite Grocery is intimate and gilded to the nines. While La Petite Grocery is opulent and decadent now, its nearly 100 year old home has a storied past as a tea depot, grocery story, butcher shop, florist studio - and finally the restaurant it is today. The menu pays homage to traditional New Orleans food culture and you’ll find rarities like turtle bolognese and blue crab beignets. The cocktails are creative and you’ll leave wanting to come right back. | 4238 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
The Fairgrounds
Toast | If there’s any fight that I’ll take to my grave, it’s that no better hang over breakfast/brunch exists on this planet | 1845 Gentilly Blvd, New Orleans, LA 70119
BARS THAT I LOVED
The Elysian Bar - you’ll be hard pressed to find another space as warm, earthy, and inviting as Elysian. The Elysian finds its home in the 150 year old St. Peter and Paul church and sits upon a quiet street in the Marigny. Don’t miss the courtyard, café, or parlors either - afternoon light pours into all of them and you’ll never want to leave. The Grasshopper drink was personal favorite! | The Marginy | 2317 Burgundy St, New Orleans, LA 70117
San Lorenzo - hosted within the Lower Garden St. Vincent Hotel, this bar is airy, cute, and sundrenched in the late afternoon. Gated (free) parking is available for guests and patrons | Lower Garden | 1507 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70130
The Carousel Bar & Lounge - hidden away in the Hotel Monteleone, this ornate bar includes a spinning carousel - show up for the live jazz and you’ll feel like you’re right back in the roaring 20’s | French Quarter | 214 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Pat O'Brien's - the rumored home of The Hurricane; a basic induction to day drinking in the French Quarter. Stay for their dueling pianos and this is a great place to meet for drinks for Preservation Hall also! | French Quarter | 718 St Peter, New Orleans, LA 70116
Three Muses - a live music bar on Frenchmen Street with rotating acts and amazing drinks | The Marginy | 536 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70116
The Chloe - previously a mansion in the Uptown/Garden District, The Chloe has been converted into a stylish 14 room hotel that boasts a lush garden, multiple bars, front porch rockers, and a moody, elegant interior. I would die to have the red and white velvet gator carpet installed in my own home one day. Choose from the sultry and cool indoor bar, lush front patio, or sun streaked pool-side bar - all of them are calling. | Garden District | 4125 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70115
Columns - also calling from the Garden District is the Columns. Built in 1883 as a private mansion, it transitioned into a boarding house during WWI before becoming the hotel it is today. Similar to the Chloe, the Columns estate is stunning and rich in interior design and drink offerings. | Garden District | 3811 St Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA 70115
SHOPS THAT I LOVED
Skip the typical tourist souvenirs and instead support locally owned, crafted, and operated art & goods from these businesses!
French Quarter | Vieux Carré
Dirty Coast - founded in 2004 after Hurricane Katrina, Dirty Coast rallies and boasts pride for all things New Orleans: shirts, patches, pins, drinkware, etc. Always unique and always stylish. | Locations in: The French Quarter, Uptown, and Lower Garden.
Lyla Clayre Studio - I am a HUGE fan of art and Lyla' Clayre’s French Quarter studio is adorned with her watercolor pieces that bring New Orleans and the surrounding swamps to beautiful life on paper. Scoop some post cards, letter sets, or a print to always have a piece of Nola with you! | 824 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Dark Matter - spooky, odd, dark, and quirky - this shop tucked into the French Quarter will satisfy all your curiosities! | 822 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Papier Plume - a snail mail lover’s paradise! This shop in the French Quarter carries cards, papers, luxury fountain pens, waxes, and seals. I have been dying to try wax sealing and the they were kind enough to show me how with an oil wick and gold wax - needless to say, all of my letters from here on out will carry an alligator seal | 842 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70116
The Marigny (Frenchmen Street included)
Frenchmen Art & Books - MY FAVORITE shop in the Maginy, the wooden floors creak and groan as you peruse books. With a black cat and “Witches Cast Ballots” as their slogan, I couldn’t help but to love this shop any more. Their local New Orleans/Louisiana section is pretty substantial also! | 600 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Baldwin & Co. - a Black-owned and operated bookstore, their selection is intentionally diverse and carries many books a traditional chain bookstore does not. Floor to ceiling shelves line the backwall, including an art piece of Baldwin himself, before leading to a podcast studio tucked in the back. Widely celebrated for their championing a ‘growth mindset’, pop in and support with the purchase of a book or coffee | 1030 Elysian Fields Ave, New Orleans, LA 70117
Lower Garden | Irish Channel
Lionheart Prints - a cute assortment of special occasion cards on high quality stock and gel pens GALORE | 3312 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
Fleurty Girl - a little closer to touristy-type souvenirs, but still with a genuine Nola flair | 3137 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
Cocoally Arts & Apparel - this has got to be the cutest shop I stumbled upon! If you’re an animal lover, opossums especially - you HAVE to make a stop on in. This store is absolutely adorable for kids | 2041 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Lucy Rose - if you’re in need of CUTE summer dresses, tops, and more - this is IT! Don’t skip their sale rack for more affordable finds! | 3318 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
Touro
Home Malone - this store was a great find for more unique and authentic New Orleans gifts - glassware, signage, books, art, jewelry, and more | 4610 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
NOLA Boards - if you have extra room in your suitcase, score a gift for yourself or others that will last you forever. The Louisiana love is scattered all through the shop from kitchen utensils to tea towels, glassware, and more | 4228 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70115
Alice & Amelia - summer dresses, art, jewelry, books, and more | 4432 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
Stella Dallas - the trendiest and cutest clothes to boot | 5421 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
Uptown
Scriptura - second to Papier Plume, this is the place to find high quality cardstock and pens in the Touro. This store is intended for custom invite design, yet I still had a great time perusing - and petting both shop pups! | 5423 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA 70115
HIKES THAT I LOVED
Boy Scout Road Trail - an elevated boardwalk above the swamp that leads into dense forest. This was so beautiful and there are very few other people - leaving a large variety of wildlife! | U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, 61389 Hwy 434, Lacombe, LA 985-882-2000
Northlake Nature Center - a short walk to a sheltered pond with spotted gar, large turtles, and an alligator | 23135 U.S. Hwy 190, Mandeville, LA 70448
Bayou Coquille Trail - I felt as if I was transported into Jurassic Park! I saw loads of reptiles and so many birds. I highly recommend this, but take care to watch out for the wildlife and give it space | Jean Lafitte Historical Park | QVVH+C3, Jean Lafitte, LA 70072
FOOD THAT WAS OK
But didn’t knock my socks off and I’d probably skip next time -
The Creole Creamery
The Gumbo Shop
Morrows
DeVille Coffee House & Creperie
Kenner Seafood
Dat Dog
Commander's Palace (I KNOW, it’s hailed as an institution, but really does not live up to the hype and is not worth the $$$ IMO)
Urban South
The Bean Gallery
THINGS I MISSED THAT ARE ON MY LIST FOR NEXT TIME
If you’ve been to or go to any of these places - please let me know if they’re worth a trip!
Ruby Slipper Café
Bacchanal Wine Bar
New Orleans Creole Cookery
Brennans
BearCat
The Country Club
Eliza Jane Hotel
The Kolache Kitchen
Banh Mi Boys
Palace Café
Turkey and the Wolf
Thank you SO much for reading! Hopefully you add some fun and unique places onto your list for your next New Orleans trip!
Happy rambles always, Leah